Early Summer 2009

Pinot Noir (pee-no-nwahr)

Pinot Noirs, along with Cabernet Sauvignons, are recognized as the world's greatest red wine grapes. These noble wines are deservedly described as spicy, rich and complex with great finesse and elegance, together with silky texture. Unlike the Cabernets, Pinot Noirs are not easily cultivated nor consistently vinified into fine wine, even in their native France. The grape can be quite finicky regarding vineyard site as well as having a tendency to bud early, making them susceptible to spring frosts and a variety of other plant illnesses. Further, Pinot Noirs come in many clonal variations making the vintners' choice of vine plantings quite exacting. A couple months ago, I asked a visiting winemaker what has caused the recent rise in popularity of California Pinot Noir. His response was quite surprising. He said that until recently, the clone most planted in California was the one best suited for the production of sparkling, not still wines. There's a story out there that cuttings from some of the best Burgundian estates were smuggled into the country and planted. However they arrived here, the new clones were the proper ones for California and the rest is history. Along came the movie Sideways and suddenly Pinot Noir became and continues to be the hottest grape going. In fact, in the 52 week period ending 01/01/2008, Pinot Noir sales were up a whopping 22.8% over year earlier results. The trend continues with Pinot Noir sales up another 16% in 2008.

2007 Morgan Winery Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Twelve Clones

Morgan Winery is the shared vision of owners Dan and Donna Lee. Born and raised in Turlock, CA, Dan's early wine education was stealing sips of his parent's Mateus and Lancer's Rose. After high school, Dan headed to UC Davis with some of his ag buddies to pursue a venerinary/medical degree. While enjoying college life, Dan's academic vision cleared when he discovered he could drink wine and make a career out of it as well. Dan met his wife Donna after she migrated north from Southern California to pursue a banking career in the Salinas Valley. In 1982, Dan and Donna, started Morgan Winery. In 1996, they bought the Double L Ranch in the Santa Lucia Highlands and planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown organically.

Gianni Abate, Morgan's winemaker visited with us in April and we discussed what 'grown organically' meant. I noted that even though so many wineries are claiming their grapes to have been grown organically or been the product of biodynamic farming, we never seem to see it on the label. Gianni explained that while they follow many of the biodynamic principles and do not use pesticides and fertilizers in their 'grape production', they do utilize non-organic ingredients in the 'wine production' to prevent spoilage. We also talked about 'Vegan' wine. I thought all wines would be fine for Vegans, but I then learned that most wineries use a fining agent to ensure the wine you buy will be crystal clear. These agents are normally based on animal products, such as egg whites or fish bladders, which would not make a Vegan happy.

Morgan Twelve Clones Pinot Noir is produced from top quality Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards. Morgan's organically farmed Double L Vineyard is 44% of the 2007 blend, and contributes complexity with 12 different clonal selections of Pinot Noir. The cool Monterey climate and strong Salinas Valley winds combine to form a very long growing season, creating intense, ripe flavors with balancing acidity. Ripe, well-articulated aromas of black cherries are joined by hints of dried violets, milk chocolate and a light dusting of toasty oak, and the wine replays those clear and inviting attractions in flavors that are fairly open at the front of the palate but firm up appropriately at the back. Along the way, there is both concentration and a few rough edges, and this one cries out for several years of cellar aging even though it is ready for roasts and chops even now.

2005 Steele Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara County

Jed Steele was founding winemaker, general manager, and VP of Production at Kendall Jackson for its first nine vintages. Jed was eminently successful at KJ, taking them from 35,000 to more than a million cases a year. The story is that early on in his tenure, Jed found himself with a bunch of Chardonnay which had a residual sugar level much higher than normal. The wine was released anyhow and sold spectaculary. Apparently there was a bit more to it than that. After leaving KJ, Steele continued to produce this 'sweeter' Chardonnay. Jess Jackson, the Jackson of Kendall Jackson and owner of the filly Rachel Alexandra, claimed that this style of Chardonnay was his and his alone since Jed developed it while working at KJ. Jed thought otherwise, Jess of course sued and the court sided with Jess Jackson. Jed shook this all off, became winemaker or consultant with Edmeades, Villa Mt Eden, Fess Parker, Stony Hill, Northstar and others. In June of 1996, Jed purchased the old Konocti Winery between Lakeport and Kelseyville in Lake County, located on Highway 29, a one hour drive from Calistoga, north of Sonoma and one and a half hours from Santa Rosa. There he produces his award winning Steele wines, his second, less expensive Shooting Star wines and with his son Quincy, the wines of Writer's Block.

Bien Nacido, literally Spanish for "Born Well", is one of the vineyards in Santa Barbara where Steele Wines purchases Pinot Noir grapes. It is an expansive tract of land with many different aspects and exposures. It sits on a bench above the Sisquoc River and is one of the most well known of the Santa Barbara area vineyards. Many of the most prestigious wineries in California purchase grapes from this vineyard, as Bien Nacido wines are always elegant, perfumed and alluring. Jed feels that the wine from Bien Nacido is deeper, richer with more color and body than from other vineyards. His aging program is always in French Oak barrels which are heavily toasted during the bending of the staves. This toasting gives a smoky aromatic backdrop to the wonderful cherry fruit aromas and flavors. The 2005 is a supple, delicious Pinot Noir. The wine is elegantly silky, with satisfying flavors of cherries, currants, Dr. Pepper, smoky vanilla and fresh Provencal herbs. It has a good edge of tannins, promising good aging potential.